The New Hair Color ‘IT’ Model

Agyness Deyn is no stranger to most people with her edgy hair striding down the runways and magazine covers and this year she changed her hair color in three dramatic different shades and is being heralded by those in the industry as the modern day Linda Evangelista. Memories of decades past and the influence supermodels had with their hair cuts and hair colors, the granddame Ms Linda Evangelista made a huge impact on our industry and my pocket book as well as having fun with my clients. I don’t think we have seen any model nor celebrity that has made that type of “splash” since Linda and Jennifer Aniston until now and having several of my own clients bring me Agyness’s pictures this past year as references for hair color and cuts is fantastic because there bold yet classy and fun to do, and in these economical troubled times we all need a lift, a change, and hair color is a feel good item people will always buy, and maybe we will see more and more models and celebrity’s changing their hair and bring back the spotlight on hair color change globally.

Permanent Hair Color vs Semi-Permanent and Grey

When does one switch from semi-permanent color to permanent , this depends on each individuals situation and the amount of grey in the hair, most people who use semi-permanent color primarily are those who have a small amount of grey that want it disguised without the demarcation line that a permanent color causes, there are also those who do not want the commitment of once a month salon visits and use a semi for a slight alteration to the natural hair giving it a hue, tone , or simply to add body and shine. Distinguishing the amount of grey in peoples hair is one of the most important aspect in deciding which direction to go, semi or permanent, this is sometimes where mistakes can be made. Traditionally we are taught in cosmetology schools the standard grey scale of 20% 50% and higher yet in my experiences everyone see’s differently my 20% might not be the same as someone else’s, we have to also take into consideration the type of grey, is it coarse, soft, stubborn and is it in fact true grey, silver or white . Learning and understanding these differences is the key to successful formulations to the end result.

Another important part is the individuals dislike or like for their grey, typically there are those who might have 20% grey and dislike it so much that they tint their hair with a permanent hair color and change the whole molecular structure, and then there are those who might not be bothered even with 50%, so what does one do. The answer is customize for each individual, and a simple guideline is at 20% use a semi-permanent, at 50% with scattered grey use a permanent with 10 volume , and anything higher has to be a permanent hair color if they want the grey gone, it is that simple.
Today there is a huge market of people who are using drugstore hair color products particularly semi-permanents, they might not know that almost all drugstore hair color products including semi-permanent colors contain a higher developer (peroxide) then what a salon uses. I cannot count the times I have had people come to see me with demarcation lines telling me “oh it’s only a semi-permanent I used”uh huh, I believe full-hearted that it is the stylists responsibility to educate, recommend and do what’s right for each clients unique situations and following guidelines as well as understanding when to use a semi-permanent or a permanent hair color on a person, there is a place and a need for both.

Have a greet weekend everyone!

Tinting Eyebrows

The eyebrow is considered a major feature in defining the face; it is also there to protect the eye area and this single tiny strip of hair can also defy a person’s look, The eyebrow to me is the frame to the eyes, as the eyes are the mirrors of the soul they are in beauty a very important part of an individual’s style and personality. Tinting eyebrows is an art because like the hair on the head it has natural underlying pigments or grey, understand that eyebrow hair can also go brassy, or to bright just like the hair color on our heads so formulation is key and knowing when to take it off. The first thing to consider when dying eyebrows is will it look natural, and are you prepared to possibly have roots yes roots on your eyebrows. For years my clients have been asking me if they should dye their eyebrows to math their hair colors and I always say ‘match no’ but ‘compliment’ yes, the reason is because mostly blondes and redheads who dye their eyebrows look fake, brassy and just like the hair on the head it grows roots, not so pretty. No matter what color of hair you have the eyebrow should always be slightly darker to bring focus to the eyes, even children’s eyebrow colors are darker than their golden locks.
What I do recommend is,
Blondes lightening up a shade or two no more and use a ash/blue base, checking process in 5 minute intervals until desired tone.
Reds use brown based red; you can use the same formula as your hair colors just add a smidge of a lower level.
Grey covering grey hair on eyebrows is difficult due to the coarseness, a trick I use is taking hair wax, and apply it on the eyebrow helping to keep those stubborn grey hair down, so the dye can stick right on them and the rest of eyebrow for better coverage

Regal Hair Colors

This season we are seeing a huge trend in dark jewel tones like majestic purples, midnight blues and port wine shades in makeup, nail colors, clothes as well has hair color. It’s a chic palette for this fall/winter season of inspirations taken from eras past, Art Deco, Punk, 80’s and Goth, all having a theme of dark “Black” rich shades representing edgy and strength. Connecting hair color with this season’s sharper shapes and fantastic collage of regal tones are done with recycled hair color placements like shine lines, hidden color, and color melting, formulas are intensified by either blue, purple, or red accents. It is a season which will be focused on dark hair “brunette”, and as always not to be taking literally but as ideas for all those who can wear dark hair and want to add richness to their dark tresses and for those who dare to change. As for the rest who don’t want the dramatic look you can still be “IN” by wearing these gorgeous nail colors and makeup collections.

Model Hair Spotlight #4

The Coco Moment

Coco Rocha started her modeling career in 2004 and since then has graced every fashion magazine, ad campaigns and major runways. Her beauty is undoubtedly a classic look with a piercing Starr. She was discovered at an Irish dance competition, which later would prove she can still dance the highland style dance while opening for Jean Paul Gaultier Fall/Winter 2007 show, and continues to be one of the most used models today. She also has no fears in changing her appearance by changing her hair colors Going from rich browns, to last year’s bright red to her present striking black. Her editorial work is always fabulous as she has the versatility of being a true chameleon and this Canadian beauty is here to stay on top of the new era of “Super Models”.

The New Black Hair Color

Throughout history black hair color has been seen as intelligent, sultry, mysterious, natural, serious, and possibly even evil. Witches and other female dark forces have always been portrayed as having black hair, and black hair was once considered to be more masculine particularly in the 20’s through 1930 when black hair color became the fashionable accessory to sport , complementing the popular bob haircuts and finger wave styles with red lips.
Today black hair color is making news for F/W 2009-2010 with new twists, and not the traditional “shoe polish” flat matt black we all think of, it’s silky, shines like glass with a suede texture and finish which is formed by melting with either purples, blues, reds and silvers subtlety through the hair, creating the new variations of black hair colors.
However if you are one of those people who want to go black remember that it can be a long process and a daunting experience for the stylist if you want to remove it, so make sure you are prepared for the consequences that black hair color might have and understand that it is possible to remove it out but with realistic outcomes meaning don’t expect to go back to the perfect cool blonde in one step.
If you love dramatic change and can wear black hair color go for it, it’s worth it.

Dark is strong. Dark is bold

On The Road Again

Yes it is the season of travel yet again for me, here comes the battle of the airports.

Have a great weekend everyone!!!!!

Haircut-Color Change For Fall

Going for a new look for this fall! if you are one of those people who love to reinvent or love to change their hair come this time of year, I say ‘kudos’ to you, it is the perfect time
to explore new looks with haircuts, hair color, and make-up, there are however a few key things to consider to make this experience the best for you .

1/ Do not go into the salon with a ponytail, particularly if you are seeing a new stylists, I suggest you have your hair as you normally wear it , this gives the stylist a better idea of your hair type, texture, and previous style. If you are seeing your regular stylist and you are looking for a change, style your hair.

2/ When you are looking for a slight or dramatic hair color change bring loads of pictures of hair colors you like, remember in hair color we need a visual communication, my red is different than my clients red. Book a consultation before making the actual appointment whether it’s a new stylist or you’re regular.

3/ Make sure you are ready for the change, we cannot glue hair back up, and contrary to what many people think once your hair is colored it is a very hard task to bring the hair back to its natural color, especially going red.

4/ And changing includes your make-up palette, you can’t wear the same colors as before,
consult with a make-up artist , even your stylist can suggest new great lip colors, eye shadows, and blushes.

5/Change your shampoo and conditioners, this should happen at the beginning of every season, and if you have gone for a color change it is important you use cleansing and conditioning systems that are specially designed for color treated hair.

My Product Suggestions

Aveda ; Color Conserve Shampoo, Conditioner and Treatment

Hair Color, Fall/Winter 09/2010

Today trends don’t dictate any longer if you’re IN or OUT but act has a catalogue of newly inspired fashions, ideas that are not cut in stone but inspirations of bits and pieces you draw from. Many of us in the fashion industry for years disagree with Trend Setting but agree on Trend Forecasts, because for years we have seen the wrong hair trends on the wrong person. Trends are created to represent ideas not always to be taken literally, take the idea, the theme and customize and create what suites that Individual regardless what actual color is hot for the season.

One thing is for sure is that F/W09/10 will see more people choosing hair color than before! As more women (and men) are now using hair color as an accessory to add to their individual style. From hiding grey, to moving towards a mix of many trends what we are definitely going to see is the use of predominantly subtle flashes of Tone on Tone, in various individualistic shades.

And for the last few years, it has become noticeable that a sophisticated look is making its way into the hair coloring trends as well as fashion. In fact there are some great old school hair coloring techniques that are being refined for this coming year making hair colors appear more striking and polished by being vibrant but not bright to an overall look in a purely elegant, masculine and organically raw season.

Hair Color Trend Forecast F/W 09/10
Tone on Tones Color
Brunettes with hints of molten gold’s peeking through from interior
Red-Heads with fine threads of new and old penny colors, (coins)
Blonde with almond and biscuit hues beside each other with flecks of butter tones

I Am Back

Happy Labor Day!, Happy Fall!

I am back from summer vacation ready to bring on my most favorite season Fall, and my busiest with travel, speaking engagements, teaching and clients. It is a time of renewal and change as September has always marked a new year for me and I am excite to continue to share with all of you my thoughts, inspirations, ideas, suggestions and my all encompassing passion for fashion&beauty.

AnaK