Hot Roots

Hot roots is a term we use when the tint went to bright on the roots which ends up lighter than the rest of the hair, it’s a common challenge when coloring hair but the easiest to avoid. There are several reasons why this happens, 1/ did not formulate correctly 2/ used a higher then needed developer 3/ color was removed to early, not following manufactures process timing. Whichever reason it might be that this happens it looks awful and clients notice it and end up unhappy primarily because they usually sit there for another round of color application on their head. The first mistake a hairdresser makes is reapply the same formula which will not solve this situation, it might possibly give the client as well as the hairdresser the illusion that it worked only to realize that within a couple of weeks the brighter lighter roots came back because you added more of the same .

A hot root is one of my pet peeves knowing that it could have been prevented by correctly assessing the individual’s natural level, percentage of grey if any is present, and what is the desired result. And when a hot root happens a lot of hairdressers are fearful of this and most of the time will approach it as “let’s reapply” which is the correct thing to do however using the exact same formula is not the correct thing to do unless hairdresser and client both think brighter roots is cool!

A suggestion on how to correct the hot root challenge.

Add a little bit of a lower Natural level to formula, many times using a lower developer can possibly add another challenge, root stay darker. Only time I use a lower level of developer is when I am working off a natural higher level (lighter hair color) to going darker or when there is 80% grey and higher.

When a hot root does occur the best way to go about fixing it is too reapply, make a formula that has the same level “N”as the original add a little lower level and no other pure tones or accent tones just a straight N series to the formula and use 20 volume make sure you are on top and watching it carefully. The reason I prefer to use 20 volume instead of 10 volume is because the 10 volume will only sit on top of the hot roots and temporarily tone roots down, using a slight darker shade with 20 volume will enable that shade to cover and believe it or not it will hold better.

Comment

kitty said...
makes sense,, cause if you put same formula on it will dull down, but 20 volume will clean and deposit, leveling it out with a bit of darker level ,, learnt that from the best ;=)

Me said...
@ kitty absolutely ,, 20 vol is the way to go if you do go with adding a lower level , 10 vol can work as well but you have to know there are more possibilities that it might fade, were i found going with a slight lower level, and 20 worked neutralized and lasted longer, remember when you paint a wall no matter lighter or darker you primer, to me 20 volume is just that , cleans and deposits =)