Jun 2, 2010

Hair & Hair Color Challenge #13

HCC Email/Question

Hi HCC
My challenge is; I have a client who is about I’d say 80% gray and 100% gray in the front hairline, I have been coloring her hair for the last 6 months using 2 different formulas which is working on her gray hair, but what is happening is that the front part of her hair (hairline) is creating a very dark halo which I have tried several times to prevent by adjusting the formula. Nothing is working I have even gone up at least 2 to 3 levels lighter and still there is this almost level 3 banding, is there anything I can do to fix and prevent this from happening?
Suzanne

There can be several reasons why dark bands are created; 1/ the grey in the front hairline can be more porous then the rest of the hair, 2/ individual has a high content of sodium in their system which typically comes out through perspiration, 3/ skin care ( moisturizers) 4/ makeup, 5/ hormones.

In any case there are a few tricks you can try to alleviate this challenge, however the first thing one needs to do is remove what is already present ( cleanse) which means remove some of the hair color on the hairline. Without doing this and continuing to color this area the results will not change, think of it this way when we want to paint a wall that already has paint on it the first thing we do is use a primer so the old paint does not come through, darken or dulls down the new color, so by removing some of the dark tint on the banding will enable you to apply fresh hair color. Once this is done you must make sure there is no overlapping when the hair color is being applied, you can apply a barrier cream on the out-growth the next time the client comes in for her hair color, and this will also help. Keep in mind that makeup as well as some moisturizers can cause front hairline banding in which case I would ask the client to be careful not to get any on the hairline. Ask the client if she workout that day, you can’t believe how many times I have had this exact situation and discovered that the perspiration was the culprit (salt), so my recommendation is always have them wash their hair after a workout if they are going to get their hair colored that day.

35 comments:

  1. great post! I love the info

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  2. I have had the same challenge through the years, and if you do not remove what is already there it will just continue to go darker

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  3. Great Post! and fantastic information we wouldn't think of in doing ;=}

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  4. this works, i always put like an anti-humectant on the banding so it does not go darker, of course after i have removed some of the dark tint

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  5. You truly are a hair color guru, love the post!

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  6. i think you should always ask the guests if they have had previous experiences like this, then you can formulate

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  7. wonderful info,, these are my favorite posts I learn a lot TY =)

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  8. I totally agree to fix or pervent you have to remove the old color,, great posting hcc

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  9. it is imperative that you remove some of that dark banding, before anything,

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  10. I had this happen to me a couple of times and I did exactly has HCC recommends, it works

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  11. great post & recommendations, you always inspire me to be a better haircolorist xo

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  12. I love when you post these types of challenges, your suggestions are always based on common sense, (remove present color first)

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  13. You share so much info hcc, this is why you are my favorite blog xoxo

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  14. Great post! I love it and you ;=}

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  15. Love it! your the best HCC

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  16. after fixing the band i would ask the client to not work out the day of hair color

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  17. No matter what you do in the hairline it will continue to darken if you don't cleanse it out first, I know from experiance

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  18. great post! i agree with you 100% first remove color then protect

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  19. Super cool info thanks hcc, will file it away

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  20. I have got to remove the dark color first, i love the primer metaphor brilliant!!!!

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  21. it would be ideal for clients who wear oil based foundation not wear makeup the day of their hair color, that would be a perfect world

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  22. great post! i love your unique approachs there pretty sensible to me +]

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  23. great simile with the painting a wall. clever thinking xo

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  24. hairline banding is common, these are great suggestions, might make our lives easier in the future facing a challenge like this one.

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  25. thx hcc for posting this challenge has i've faced it myself..

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  26. removing the band is the only way to fix this. hair color 101

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  27. great idea on appling barrier cream on the outgrowth,

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  28. It all is common sense, thank you for posting these.

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  29. great analogy on a primer and wall paint!!

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  30. great post and information on different way's to prevent banding from occurring
    TY.

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  31. persperation is a problem paticularly when tring to cover grey hair it leaves the hairlines porous and contains salt which grabs darker, so if a guest can not workout before she visits you would be the best soluation to not get this reocurring challenge

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  32. the information is helpful and smart thx hcc xo

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  33. the cleansing o the band has to be woked on first, but you have to be careful not to remove to much of the hair color, get it to the same level as the rest of the hair.

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  34. Super cool blog! great info

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  35. smart on appling an anti-humectant on the previous root area, I like your blog HCC +]

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