Nov 23, 2009

Hair & Hair Color Challenges

HCC Email/Question #4

I have probably 70% grey and have always had almost black hair. My stylist kept the color pretty well and then my hair went bluish black and flat. I went to a colorist who told me it was too dark for me (I am 55). She stripped my hair and put a medium brown on which has a lot of red and it fades after a week. I hate it and do not think that I look good. Any suggestions?

When grey hair is present between 50% and higher the darker the color you go the faster you get a demarcation line, roots (not pretty). It is true that as we age our hair colors should be softer , remembering that hair color can in fact bring attention to favourable features as well as unfavourable ones, so I steer my clients away from black tints because it is that one color that not only brings attention but it is the hardest to change. Cleansing out (stripping) has a process to go through color stages, as the black lifts it goes into a red, and when we put a brown on it the color becomes a brown/red hair color. With this situation there should be blue or violet or better both blue/violet in the formula, and it is more than likely a 10 volume developer was used. This might be a perfect scenario when combing through the hair color, mid-ends, with what volume developer do you use 10 or 20, I would use 20. . I have blogged about my theory on developers and how I use them and after removing hair color from hair that new tone needs still a lifting and deposit of tone at the same time, 20 volume developers does just that.

So I suggest to tell the hairdresser you want more blue, violet in your formula, and to comb through the hair color to your ends with 20 volume developer, I am most certain this will help in the fading issue. It is also vitally important that you maintain proper homecare for your hair, invest in color treated shampoo’s and products that protect color treated hair. Embrace warmer colors; add different colors to both your face and wardrobe, if we change our hair color we have to do the same for makeup and clothes, this often can change our idea of how we look with a newer hair color (trust me).

My Product Suggestions
Aveda Clove Shampoo and Clove Color Conditioner
Aveda Color Conserve Shampoo and Conditioner
Find an Aveda salon near you;


  1. good advice ,, love HCC blogs

  2. get a new hairdresser, also after 50 i think women should wear dark browns, i wore black for years and althouggh it was exotic it brought focus to my wrinkles , urggggg

  3. black can become to harsh , also until the hairdresser figures out the formula you will see red for awhile hard to say if we can't see you to truly assess

  4. i agree if you change hair colors change your makeup , and starting loving your new color , I know I did

  5. i'd buy the products recommended here and wait a little longer to redo haircolor, it will probably take better and last longer once you give your hair a break....

  6. cool blog!! i like it i want 2 be a great hairstylist and know everything ;]

  7. Hi...
    Here is an idea...get a buff spikey haircut, & let your gray grow in...A funky wild young haircut is a lot of fun & mitigates the graying effect...I have seen ladies paint some black stripes through the gray, gives an exotic skunk look-especially if you have an Annette Bening (sorry sp?) type face...Sometimes instead of fixing a colour problem it works to distract the eye with a great structural shape...Get some Aveda shampoo, conditioner & one of their Smooth Infusion lay-on-tops & really work on the condition...Add some evening primrose oil (to your diet)to get your skin looking great (a supplement) & jazz it all up with some fig coloured lipgloss & some matching cheek tint & under eyebrow tint...Pop the look with some dirt coloured sweaters in chic homemade knits with a dusty pair of jeans & some comfy shoes...Embrace walking at least half an hour a day & read some good books...Gray is not the end of the world, it is a new beginning...p.s. notice all the men with gray hair who look great & casually flirt harmlessly to increase self esteem...

  8. i used to be black for years, then slowly got lighter, it was the best thing i did!

  9. I have never used permanent color after a color correction. I have felt that I have lifted it to the desired level then I use demi to deposit. Can you explain the differences for me please :)