Happy Halloween

"The freaks come out at night yeah, the freaks come out at night"

Aging Hair - Over Worked Hair

There's a proverb in the beauty industry that hair-care trends follow skin-care trends, and now anti-aging and renewal has started turning up on shampoos, conditioners. Besides being trendy there is a real reason that hair-care companies are choosing to bring age-protective products to the market. We are tormenting our hair like never before with all the heat curling, drying, flattening, chemical treaments and styling aids we have today to create our hairstyles and combine that with chronological aging and increased environmental pollutants and we have a plague of thirsty, brittle, and worn "old " hair. Fact; anyone older than 30 will at some point experience thinner hair”, experts say 50% of women lose their hair due to hormonal changes, other benefactors can be weight-loss, immune-system imbalances, trauma and stress, other 50% is due to over processing their hair with chemicals, men have their own issues of thinning.

However age is not the only contributing factor to thinning hair, I have also seen hair color and chemical strengtheners destroy hair, and my motto is ‘hair can only take so much’. So how often should we color to preserve the quality of our hair? I don’t think thinning out hair is entirely based on the frequency of hair coloring but the products used, the peroxide volumes, incorrect applications, color on top of color every few weeks, and you will see a 20 year old with broken thinning hair. And it is the responsibility of the hairdresser to help and maintain healthy lustrous hair, with the correct approaches with tinting, highlighting, bleaching and or straightening, giving client’s efficient timelines for how often we get our color done and prescribing a homecare maintenance program to follow.

A prime example of how hair thins out is; blonde hair going brown then wants blonde highlights then wants to go back blonde and then wants to be blonder, all this within 3 to 6 months and your hair will end up possibly 30 to 50% finer guaranteed. I cannot count how many times I have sent my clients home because they wanted quick spontaneous changes knowing that they and their hair would be unhappy or came in with ¼ inch roots and wanted highlights every few weeks, and if a hairdresser doesn’t have enough experience to know the possible results will most likely do it to please, or worse for ‘the cash’, and continuing with these types of visits will inevitably produce weaker breakable hair, results thinner finer hair.

The trick at any age with hair is, prep, cleanse, nourish scalp and hair, cut regularly, color hair wisely and realistically, use organically derived products without harsh debilitating side-effects particularly in hair color, this is an easy and logical way to hold on to our hair longer.

My recommended product line
Aveda

Model Hair Spotlight #5

Jacquetta Wheeler You might not know the name but if you follow the runways, and print ads you know the face. Yes another British aristocrat discovered on the streets of London by Mario Testino and by the age of 17 she had graced the covers of all the european vogues, by 19 the fashion industry declared her the 'Model of the Millennium'. For the past decade Jacquetta has also been one of the few rebel models who loves to change her hair and hair color, paving the way in defying the traditional standards in the modeling world (models don’t change their hair). After taking a year off in 2008 and coming back this year as one of the faces for Gucci and walking down some of the springs 2010 runway shows sporting her blonder tresses, Jacquetta remains as one of the Super Models of this decade to watch for constant reinventions with her hair and color.

"She is one of the greatest models working today. Her face is like a Roman vase - not a standard beauty , but a modern anti-beauty." Karl Lagerfeld

Hair Product Spotlight: Tool #1

Aveda Brilliant Damage Control

This is a fantastic product not only to be used at home as a pre-styling tool to protect your hair from the hazards of heat elements such as blow drying, curling irons, flat irons and natural elements such has winter and sun damage but as well as a great pre-color tool. There are a few staples of product tools I use with my work and one has been for some time now Aveda’s Brilliant Damage Control. I absolutely love this product and I use it everyday on my clients, here I have listed a few way’s I use damage control .

Tints; once I have applied the hair color onto the roots and let it process half way I spray damage control to the rest of the hair and then comb through the color to the ends, this helps combing the hair color through easier which makes for a even saturation and application.

Highlights; before I begin I will spray the already pre-existing highlighted hair, this is a fantastic way to protect the hair from the possibility of overlapping which does occur with repeated highlights protecting the hair from weakening.

Fine Hair; this is one of the best products to recommend for those individuals that no matter what they use on their hair they still have the struggle with tangles.

For all hair types
Protects against thermal damage
Reduces breakage from combing
Helps protect against UV damage

Hair Accessories For FW/09

There was a time that only brides would add ornaments to the hair such as tiaras and fancy jewelled pins, this season we are seeing some great hair accessories coming from the runways like leather bun covers, leather ponytail gripes, feathers, hair broaches, flowers, small ornate hats and colored bobby pins which all look fabulous. And using hair accessories is perhaps one of the best ways to dress up a look and add interest. Today adding a touch of bling to the hair is a hot trend even a single bobby pin placed on a fringe (bang) creates a mood to the hair and whether it’s for the office or an evening out this is one sure inexpensive way to add some chic into anyone’s style. So go through your grandmas jewellery or an old school beauty supply store see what you can find and start accessorizing your hair.

Hairdresser Spotlight #1

Guido Palau

Guido Palau is arguably one of the world's most influential hairstylist both in editorial and runway, and has been so for more than a decade. He creates the catwalk looks for such major players as, Marc Jacobs, Prada, Calvin Klein, Versace, Alberta Ferretti, Miu Miu, Chloé, Louis Vuitton, and Balenciaga and many more including his incredible creations for ad campaigns print work. And what you may not know is just like clothes the designers set the trends and we wear them, so does the hair and beauty, a modern up-style (up-do) is taken from the runways as is the latest hottest lip color and becomes most of the time mainstream.
Guido Palau is one of my favorites, he is an inspiration to many of us in the beauty industry, we take ideas from the likes of Palau and what’s on the runway’s and create variations and interpretations for the clients in the salon. A hairdressers-dresser with the creative ability to make women look powerful yet soft and for this season and many to come I am sure we will be seeing many more trend setting shapes, cuts, colors from Guido Palau.

Hairdressers Note

Hair color can be that marvellous magic wand that instantly transforms dull hair into splendid color that sparkles and shines, it can also instantly erase years off one’s overall look by covering grey, it can add body to fine hair and literally change a personality. Time has not lessened the power of hair color but increased with record sales and today hair color is not only used as an accessory but a necessity for many and I am thrilled, as I have seen for many years’s hair color uplift someone’s spirits and build confidence not only from the outside but from the most important part the inside-out.

Being in the service industry to me is an honour, I sometimes sit and think, “Wow I get paid for my passion” how grateful am I?’HUGE’. Giving gratitude to the clients that sit in my chair is through my work and the Desired End Results, a customized look with a personal experience with their hairdresser that all individuals seek, making someone feel special. A hairdressers job is labour intense, standing on the feet for hours on end , missing lunch, the pressure of being on time with every client, being alert and fast when something doesn’t seem right with the color and most important to be up and energetic when all you want to do is lay down cause your back is hurting. And yet we continue through all the adversities that come with this job because there is passion, passion for the art and having a servant’s heart and making someone’s day is worth every challenge.

Hair&Hair Color Challenges

HCC Email/Question #2

Hi there,
My question is two parts,
1-why does my scalp start to flake and itch come the fall? 2-And what can I do to protect my hair color from fading when I use special shampoo and conditioner for my scalp. Any advice!!
TY
Sandra G

It is normal to start experiencing these types of symptoms in the fall because 1/ change of climate 2/ we do not drink as much liquids as we do in the summer time, or perspire as much. Another factor can be that we also put the heat on which as we know dries out our skin, hands, feet, as well as our hair, like our heels that crack and hurt when their dry the scalp is the same so we tend to feel the itch and scratch. Some things you may want to try are making sure your diet contains enough vitamins E, B12, selenium and zinc, flaxseed oil is also said to help, and drink plenty of water. Also styling products can cause itchiness which from scratching leads to dry areas, you might want to switch up your styling aids you were using in the summer; this should happen regardless of present problem.

Tar products can be harsh on the hair, and yes I have seen what they can do to hair color not so pretty, most people who use tar shampoo’s have their doctors prescribe it to them, some people just buy off the shelf. Whether its dandruff shampoo’s, tea tree shampoo’s etc, they all have a tendency to effect hair color in one way or another, (dullness, fading,) which becomes a concern for both the client and the stylist. One trick I have used and continue to use is have my clients who have to use prescription shampoos is apply through the hair staying away from the scalp Aveda Beautifying Composition Oil, this way the tar shampoo will slide off the hair as you focus on shampooing the scalp, I also have the clients wash their hair right after with a color locking shampoo and conditioner.

Recommended Products:

Aveda Scalp Benefits shampoo and conditioner
balances scalp, cools irritations, removes dry patches

Aveda Beautifying Oil:

Relieves dryness and restores moisture

Aveda Color Conserve Shampoo & Conditioner
protects color-treated hair from damaging effects of sun, water and environmental stresses

Hot Hat Trends for F/W 2009-10

Fall is here and winter is coming and more and more fashionistas seem to be obsessed with hats, we have seen almost every designer for this season accompany their collections with their own versions of head gear. They are pairing up evening wear with knit slouchy hats, berets, hunter hats, faux fur hats, cap hats, all adding an elegant modern vision. Hats not only add a touch of quirk to any outfit, they take care of our health and keep our heads warm. The main hat trend for Fall-Winter seems to be continuing from last year’s over sized hats, making the main focus on this season’s hot colors, purples, blues, grays, wines, and a pop of brighter colors. Some have different embellishments and brooches others are simple and classic, I love hats and wear them often, most of the time to keep my head warm due to my short haircut, they can add a whole new feel and look to ones wardrobe and hats are great for those bad hair days.

Hair Colors; Monochromatic

Monochrome comes from the Greek word monochromos, ( mono) meaning “one ”, and (chroma), meaning “color”.

Monochromatic colors are a color scheme which uses different shades of the same color, for example, using dark brown, medium brown, and light brown at the same time. In hair color traditionally monochromatic shades were used mostly to cover grey hair having an overall appearance of just a solid tint which meant you were conservative in character. Today monochromatic hair colors are classic, understated and chic and every much a trend which has been emerging in the spot light for a few years now. We are seeing black mattes with shiny blacks, browns with various browns, reds with various red and blondes, all having 2 to 3 shades of that same color in degrees of lightness which not only results into beautiful hair colors but also adds subtle movements in the hair (contrasts).
So if you are one of those individuals who love to have rich hair colors with not too much going on ask your stylist to try adding a few highlights/slices of the same tone with slight variances to your hair, creating more shine, and texture and intrigue. For the stylists, use either 2 to 3 levels of that tone through the hair placed in sequence or the same level and 2 to 3 different developer volumes.
My favorites are, browns, reds and blonde shades to play around with, and the most important with any monochromatic scheme is that the hair color is gleaming with shine, this is one of the best way’s of achieving that glass like hair.

Beauty and Design

Inspiration comes from many things , the most important is who sits in your chair the client, look at the individuals features, body matrix, coloration, life style , clothing, make-up.

By taking a overall analysis you can begin creating lines, shapes, texture, movement, where it needs to be , creating a silhouette completely customized and approaching what you do with an artists eye.

Shape and Form is a fundamental principal of design , in color we use light, medium and dark hues , we can reflect or refract desirable features or undesirable features by where you place your details or color’s .

Choice of color combinations is the most quintessential importance in hair coloring, delivering the best desired end results by using appropriate tones to correct or enhance what is present or desired.

Butter Blondes

With the wave of dark rich striking hair colors we cannot forget the blonde beauty’s, this season blonde shades are toned down with adding dimensional tones of complementing lightness, one fantastic color to work with is butter tones, light creamy butter, golden butter, and amber butter. Blonde hair color is the most desired color and coloring service to date as we have seen through history and perhaps the most difficult to achieve on brunettes. The mistake a hairdresser makes with her/his clients is agreeing to produce a blonde shade without warmth, this is not logical and almost impossible to attain on dark natural hair, so instead of over promising and under delivering the end results educate yourselves and the clients on what looks good on them and their natural hair color. And whether highlighting, slicing whatever the color technique is used to dance through the hair butter tones look fabulous on any skin color and almost any hair color.

Try: Light Crème Butter levels 7 and above
Golden Butter levels 5 and above
Amber Butter levels 3 to 7

Red Hair Colors For F/W 2009-10

It is a fantastic looking season for this fall-winter in fashion, from, make-up lines, textiles, designers, hairstyles and hair colors all are show casing their interpretations of this season’s palette of purples, navy blues, crimson reds and rustic rich earth tones. Taking inspiration from rich jewel tones and creating hair colors that emulate the subtle spectrum of facets a stone has which when we look at them they all reflect soft hints of varying degrees of that same color or complete opposites. Layering hair colors on top of each other and choosing a cool hue and a warm hue will create those subtle hints or flash’s coming off the hair and to me there is no better stunning looking hair colors then tones on tones with subtle details. Reds this season are truly on fire and ice, it is also a great color to compliment any skin tone with its many shades and combinations to pick from,even olive skin tones can wear reds they just have to be customized with more violet/blues. Imagine a redhead wearing a royal blue outfit, amethyst, emerald green or rich camels, now that’s a head turner.

Hair&Hair Color Challenges

HCC Email/Question #1

I have a question about a color? I need to know how I can remove some darkness and ash from an all over color I did with highlights. She wanted to go darker but now she thinks it's too dark and she wants it warmer. What do you think the best way to go about this is?

Thank You Johnene

When any situation like this happens the first thing we want to do is fix it or get it fixed, in most cases if the client is not crying I have them live with it for a few day’s or at least 24hr giving the hair color time to oxidize and with a few shampoo’s such as Aveda Detox-Shampoo or Rosemary Mint Shampoo which helps with lifting off some of the residue (color) of the hair. However this is not always the ideal acceptance from the clients perceptive so we can do a few things 1/ Take shampoo plus a sprinkle of enlightener and 20 volume developer on wet hair at the sink apply like a shampoo, allow it to sit on the hair watch it carefully, it will start to remove tone, once the desired tone is achieved the shade and the ash will have subsided, now we must apply a gloss/glaze right after with gold process for 10 to 20 minutes. 2/ Using a 9N or a 10N natural level and 30 or 40 volume developer on wet hair, applying it like a virgin application mid-ends then roots working quickly at sink from the back of the head to front watching it remove tones 10 to 20 minutes. 3/ Taking fine weave highlights through some of the lowlights with enlightener using 20 volume developer, to address the remainder of the hair and ash apply a demi/semi-permanent color with gold and slightly increse the amout of the developer as required like a toner.